Cutlery is precarious, unless it’s sent properly.
I am often impressed, and just as often dismayed at the arrival of boxes sent to our studio. There are pitfalls, and good practices. Read below.
Notes on this
Thanks for reading this
- First: PLEASE fill out my ‘Publication Info’ form (found in the pulldown menu above) and submit. No paper copies wanted, unless offered at a show.
- *I use USPS Priority or Express Mail.* FedEx and UPS are fine if that works for you. You NEED to specify.
- ALWAYS send and expect delivery with ‘Signature Required’.
- My insurance covers from you to me up to $15,000 per package. Don’t pay extra.
- For this ^^^ please just send me the tracking info ASAP as a record.
- Return shipping assumes single-address/single-package return. However….
- Drop-shipping to YOUR client in US is fine. (Added $10 fee for separate flat print mailer and postage to you.)
- I cover the first $10 of USA shipping. You pay the additional fees they charge.
- International shipping is tricky and time-consuming. No credit given for International.
- I prefer fully finished/sharpened knives. YOUR final edge shows (or doesn’t) in the images.
- When possible, ship in box large enough to return a full-size photo. I reuse ALL boxes.
- Tubes and long triangles can often contain the rolled print. Do what’s best for YOU.
- I’m pleased to suggest layout/pricing after your knife arrives to discuss the display possibilities
- Do not send payments, unless we have finalized pricing beforehand. Ask if so.
- I need to weigh the completed package with prints, and get return shipping fee BEFORE I can bill you.
- We accept Checks, Cash, all Credit Cards, and PayPal (PayPal use this website email address)
- * We maintain 50% humidity in our studio.*
- We are NOT responsible for handle swelling or shrinking in shipment, upon arrival, or due to a different climate than origination.
Safe boxing tips
Send and return unscathed!
9 Mathew Court
Norwalk, CT, USA
ALL the shipping services use automated handling equipment, and they literally get PUNCHED around.
If it is at all loose, it’s going to act like an impact driver inside, pounding it’s way out of your box.
No movement inside = GOOD!
The MOST protective way of packaging a fixed blade is *inside it’s own sheath*.
You can protect the finish on the blade by oiling the blade and then wrapping it with clear food cellophane wrap, and THEN inserting into the sheath. (I do this all the time.)
Bubble wrap and shipping tape are nearly permanent. It also requires cutting with a razor or knife to unpack without destroying; VERY precarious.
I prefer easily-removable masking tape or rubber bands. (If the crooks have gotten this far, no tape is going to dissuade them.)
Cork tips fail. Unsheathed fixed blades can be made safe by making a temporary cardboard sheath:
Cut a rectangle piece 1″ longer than the blade length from the guard, and 1″ wider than *double* the width.
Fold it in half and tape the raw open ends. Slip it inside and it will disallow the tip to penetrate (Protect the guard area with tape, if fragile.)
Inside of lined zipper pouches are slippery. Wrap your knife in newspaper or cloth or something extra to keep it from sliding inside.
I probably need to mail you large prints. Avoid another shipping fee by sending a box with enough area to hold a US Letter envelope inside without folding it.